Trim carpentry tips

I hate redoing any mitre, but I will if that’s what it takes. Also, I always install a nailer for the crown moulding even if the trusses are running perpendicular. A nailer takes the guesswork out of finding the trusses/floor joists and guarantees the crown will stay in place.

Submitted by New Hope Remodeling @newhoperemodeling

A jack mitre is basically a combination of a butt joint and a mitre joint. So why use a jack mitre? Basically, the jack mitre gives you extra strength and minimises the movement of the wood, which means that there’s less of chance of gaps. Plus, the jack mitre creates a much smaller glue line so there’s no glaring glue mark after your casing is painted. And, jack mitres are just cool!

Submitted by Seth Vyn @sethvyn

It’s typically much easier to preassemble large casing and jambs before installing them. An assembly table is especially useful if you’re working on a house with a bunch of large windows. A big, flat, stable area to work makes assembly a breeze and results in cabinet shop-like quality.

Submitted by Sean Fagan @sean.fagan

As soon as you figure out the angle of your stairs, record them on a pitch block. If you also record the rise and run and you’ll have all of the numbers and angles you need. You can use the pitch block for adjusting a mitre saw or you can use it as a template for skirts and handrails. Take a snapshot on your phone so you have it in case it gets misplaced or accidentally chucked.

Submitted by Modern Oak Construction @ModernOakConstruction

There are plenty of ways to apply pressure to a mitre so it gets a nice, tight fit before it gets fastened and the glue dries. One way is to take two blocks and cut 45-degree notches at equal distances. You can screw the two blocks to the trim or hold them in place with two additional clamps. Then just hook your clamp into the notches and tighten it up. This is a good way to get perfect window trim every time.

Submitted by @carpentry_bymar

Check out these 20 secret clamping tricks from woodworkers.

A good way to give a ceiling a unique look is to create a woven intersection. They do it to floors all the time, why not ceilings? Standard mitres would not have looked nearly as nice, and this pattern is going to hold up to changes in temps and moisture levels much better.

Submitted by Justin Caraway @trim_guy

Pocket screws are a super handy form of fastening that I’ve under-utilised for too long. Recently, I have been learning to use them in as many places as possible. On this project I used pocket screws to secure a kitchen island. The base moulding will cover the holes.

Submitted by Alan Muncey @thepeicarpenter

Discover 10 woodworking joints you should know.

It’s difficult to get a tight closed mitre in casing when the jambs of a door or window stick out past the drywall. Cutting the mitre with a slight back-bevel should solve the problem. Wedge a pencil, a shim or small chunk of something to lift the casing off the plate of the saw. The size of the wedge and the distance to the blade will affect the amount of back-bevel. Practise on scrap pieces.

By CPT

Learn more tips for tighter mitres.

Cut a block of wood at a 45-degree angle and cut a flat spot for the clamp. Clamp the moulding to the block and line up the mitre saw with the mark to make the cut.

Submitted by Will Hendricks @will.hendricks

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Source: Family Handyman