Jamb moulding components are available and DIY installation is a lot easier if you apply a few clever tricks to speed up the job.

If the walls are out of plumb or the floors aren’t level, you will need to correct these problems first or the door won’t open and shut properly.

Once the jamb is secured in position, you may need to trim the door to size before cutting housings for the hinges and hanging the door.

Use a drill with a holesaw and spade bit to bore the holes for the lockset and latch, then finish by securing the architraves.

Troubleshooting tips

Troubleshooting tips
Handyman Magazine

Step 2. Set the blade depth Release the saw’s base plate control lever then position the door on a pair of sawhorses and place the saw on the door, adjusting the base plate until the blade teeth will cut about 5mm deeper than the door thickness.

Step 3. Trim the edge Attach the rip fence and check its alignment by starting the saw and advancing it just far enough to nick the edge.

Adjust the fence if necessary then continue cutting.

Remove the tape, sand lightly and seal the cut.

Hide the fasteners Screws are better for securing the hinge jamb to the studs because nails can work loose.

You can also replace a short hinge screw with a longer screw to reinforce the hinge-side stile if necessary.

To avoid having to use timber filler to hide nail or screw heads, simply drive the fastener through the hinge housing, offsetting it so it won’t obstruct the hinge screws.

Use self-drilling screws or drill pilot holes to make it easier to secure the jamb to the studs.

Troubleshooting tips

Even if the door and jamb have been installed with the utmost care, the house can settle over time and problems can creep in.

1. Free the leading edge of a door that catches in the jamb just as it’s about to close, by planing the edge of the latch side slightly off square. This will ensure that the edge that reaches the jamb first is slightly shorter than the edge that follows, enabling the door to swing freely into the jamb without catching. 2. Ensure proper latching on a door that is hitting the latch-side stop and preventing the bolt from engaging properly.

The stop piece on a jamb is secured to the main part, unless the jamb is a one-piece design where the stop is formed by rebating a single piece of timber.

If the jamb has a separate stop, it can simply be tapped over with a hammer, or pried off and reinstalled in a better position.

On a rebated jamb, trim the edge of the stop using a router with a straight cutting bit. Cut away the ends, where the router won’t reach, using a 25mm chisel.

Round the edges with 150 grit abrasive paper before painting.

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Step 1. Assemble the jamb

Step 1. Assemble the jamb
Handyman Magazine

Cut the jamb head and stiles to length, marking the stiles’ position on the head with at least 10mm clearance to the top of the door opening.

Cut housings in the head then secure with screws.

Test-fit the door in the jamb, and the jamb in the opening.

Step 2. Shim the hinge side

Step 2. Shim the hinge side
Handyman Magazine

Mark the hinge positions on the stile and door edge then chisel out housings so the hinges fit neatly.

Use a straightedge and spirit level to plumb the stile in the opening, packing with shims.

Secure the shims with adhesive and brads behind the hinge positions.

Jamb moulding components are available and DIY installation is a lot easier if you apply a few clever tricks to speed up the job.

If the walls are out of plumb or the floors aren’t level, you will need to correct these problems first or the door won’t open and shut properly.

Once the jamb is secured in position, you may need to trim the door to size before cutting housings for the hinges and hanging the door.

Use a drill with a holesaw and spade bit to bore the holes for the lockset and latch, then finish by securing the architraves.

Step 3. Secure the jamb

Step 3. Secure the jamb
Handyman Magazine

Attach the hinge stile to the stud with 75mm x 10g screws or bullethead nails through the hinge housings.

Pack under the latch stile until the head is level then position the door, wedging the latch stile for 2mm clearance all round.

Secure the stile with screws.

Step 4. Hang the door

Step 4. Hang the door
Handyman Magazine

Secure the hinges to the door then position it at 90º to the jamb.

Use a pry bar to lift the door until the hinges align with the housings.

Secure the top and base hinges using two screws only, check for smooth opening and closing then drive the remaining screws.

Step 5. Bore the lockset hole

Step 5. Bore the lockset hole
Handyman Magazine

Use the supplied template to mark the position of the lockset and latch holes.

Drill a 3mm pilot hole on the door face then use a 54mm holesaw to bore from one side until the twist bit exits.

Finish boring the face hole from the other side to prevent breakout.

Jamb moulding components are available and DIY installation is a lot easier if you apply a few clever tricks to speed up the job.

If the walls are out of plumb or the floors aren’t level, you will need to correct these problems first or the door won’t open and shut properly.

Once the jamb is secured in position, you may need to trim the door to size before cutting housings for the hinges and hanging the door.

Use a drill with a holesaw and spade bit to bore the holes for the lockset and latch, then finish by securing the architraves.

Step 6. Drill the latch hole

Step 6. Drill the latch hole
Handyman Magazine

Use a 3mm twist bit to drill a pilot hole at the marked latch position into the lockset hole.

Follow using a 25mm spade bit to drill the latch hole. On the edge of the door, mark around the latch plate and chisel out a rebate to accommodate it.

Step 7. Fit the lockset

Step 7. Fit the lockset
Handyman Magazine

Slide the latch into the latch hole on the door edge until the latch plate is seated in the rebate, then slide the spindle through the latch.

Attach the inside handle then slide the exterior cylinder assembly into position, securing with the supplied screws.

Step 8. Add the striker plate

Step 8. Add the striker plate
Handyman Magazine

Close the door and mark where the latch bolt strikes the stile.

Position the striker plate and mark around the inside and outside, then cut a rebate for the plate.

Drill the centre hole deep enough to accommodate the latch bolt and secure the striker plate.

Jamb moulding components are available and DIY installation is a lot easier if you apply a few clever tricks to speed up the job.

If the walls are out of plumb or the floors aren’t level, you will need to correct these problems first or the door won’t open and shut properly.

Once the jamb is secured in position, you may need to trim the door to size before cutting housings for the hinges and hanging the door.

Use a drill with a holesaw and spade bit to bore the holes for the lockset and latch, then finish by securing the architraves.

Step 9. Secure the trim

Step 9. Secure the trim
Handyman Magazine

Cut the architraves to length, mitring the corners to 45º and setting them 5mm back from the inside edge of the jamb.

Attach the architraves to the jamb using 40 x 1.6mm nails or a brad nailer, reinforcing the mitres with PVA adhesive and panel pins.