18 home repairs anyone can do

Risk: If the flow from your tap isn’t what it used to be, the holes in the aerator are probably plugged with mineral buildup.

How to DIY it: Close the drain stopper so small parts can’t fall in. Wrap duct or electrical tape around pliers to avoid scratching the aerator, then unscrew it (above). Scrub it with a toothbrush and rinse. If there’s still residue, soak the aerator parts in vinegar.

While you’re at it: Clean your showerhead the same way. Or try this: Fill a freezer bag with a half-and-half mixture of vinegar and water. Secure the bag over the showerhead with a rubber band or duct tape. Remove it every 15 minutes and check the flow. Don’t leave it on longer than necessary, as vinegar can damage finishes.

Risk: Pulling the bar out of the wall can make a mess and perhaps bring you down with it.

How to DIY it: Take off the loose bar by removing the screws on each of the posts that mount the bar to the wall. (If one side is solidly attached, leave it alone.) With the mounting plate now exposed, try tightening the screws in it. If that doesn’t work, remove it. Chances are you’ll find two plastic anchors underneath. Poke them with a screwdriver and let them fall inside the wall. Replace with bigger, stronger metal toggle anchors (above), sold at hardware stores. Just drive them into the existing holes with a drill or a screwdriver, and then re­attach everything.

While you’re at it: Follow the same steps to fix loose hooks and toilet paper holders.

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Risk: If your house was built before 1994 and still has the original plumbing fixtures, you’re using 30 to 40 percent more water than a comparable new home. Because about 70 percent of the water flowing through the showerhead is hot, that means higher heating bills too. A basic showerhead doesn’t cost much and could pay for itself in reduced water and heating costs after just one month.

How to DIY it: Simply unscrew the old showerhead and screw on the new one. Read the directions to see whether it requires a layer of plumber’s tape to prevent leaks.

While you’re at it: Look for the water rating – the more stars, the more water efficient the shower head will be.

Risk: Clogs only get worse over time, and a slow drain can turn into a stopped-up sink or tub – and an expensive visit from a plumber.

How to DIY it: There are lots of ways to clear a drain, so start with the easiest one. If your sink has a pop-up stopper, remove that and clean it. If that doesn’t do the trick, fill the sink with 8-10cm of water and use a plunger to plunge the sink (plug the overflow hole with a wet rag first). Still slow? Try snaking the drain pipe with a metal hanger or a pipe-cleaning tool (sold at hardware stores for about $2).

While you’re at it: Mix together 1 cup baking soda, 1 cup salt and ¼ cup cream of tartar, and store it in an airtight, childproof container. To keep your drains clog-free, pour ½ cup of this mixture down each drain every few weeks, followed by a litre or so of boiling water.

Risk: Lint build-up near your clothes dryer’s motor and heat source can ignite, causing a fire that could spread to the rest of your house. Besides, a clogged dryer takes longer to dry clothes.

How to DIY it: You should already be emptying the lint trap before every load of laundry. To do a thorough cleaning of the dryer and its vent duct system, unplug the machine (and turn off the gas valve if it has one). Pry off the access panel on the front (try a putty knife covered with duct tape to prevent scratching) and vacuum around the motor and heating element (above). Then carefully disconnect the vent duct tubing from the back of the dryer and use a dryer vent brush (about $10 at home centres; look for one that also cleans refrigerator coils) to pull out any accumulated lint. Aim to do this at least once a year.

While you’re at it: Vacuum behind the dryer regularly, and take the lint filter out every so often and run it under the tap. If water doesn’t run through, use a stiff brush to scrub the filter with hot water and a little laundry detergent.

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Risk: Every insurer has stories like this one: The homeowners left town Friday and returned Sunday evening to find a burst pipe, an overflowing toilet, or another plumbing fiasco.

How to DIY it: Simply turn off the main water valve.

While you’re at it: Any appliance that uses water has a shutoff valve. But when valves go untouched for years, mineral deposits can make them impossible to close. Before that happens, locate the valves for your washer, ice maker, water heater, etc., and turn the handle (clockwise, about a quarter turn) every year or so (more often if your water is very hard), and then turn it back.

Risk: If these holes, found in the bottom of the exterior frame of many sliding windows and vinyl replacement windows (below), get plugged with bugs or debris, they can’t do their job of draining away collected rainwater.

How to DIY it: Pour water into the track or spray the outside of the windows with a hose. If you don’t see a steady stream of clean water exiting the weep hole, poke a wire hanger into the hole or spray it with compressed air. Keep testing and cleaning out the hole until water runs through.

While you’re at it: Check window wells for any collected water, leaves or other debris, and clean them out. Or protect them with window covers.

Risk: The outside unit for your central air-conditioning is basically a fan surrounded by a wall of tubing and tiny fins. If those fins are plugged with dirt and debris, air can’t flow through properly. A neglected air conditioner uses 10 to 30 percent more energy.

How to DIY it: Turn it off by opening the disconnect box (typically located on the outside wall near the unit) and pulling out the disconnect block inside (above). Now take a good look at the unit. If the vents are caked with matter, vacuum the vents. Then rinse the unit with a hose using moderate pressure (the flimsy fins might bend under strong pressure). As you spray, peer down into the unit. You should see water streaming through. If not, the fins are still clogged, so keep rinsing.

While you’re at it: Change AC filters monthly during warm weather. Ditto for furnace filters during colder months, depending on what type you have (check recommendations in your owner’s manual).

Risk: All springs will eventually break because of metal fatigue and/or corrosion, but lubricating them at least twice a year will make them last longer.

How to DIY it: This job can be messy, so protect nearby surfaces by covering them with plastic or cardboard. Spray the springs with garage door lubricant (available from home centres). Don’t use oil, grease, or other lubricants. They may be cheaper, or you may have them on hand already, but they won’t work as well and tend to pick up dust and grit – just what you don’t want on moving parts.

While you’re at it: Spray the rollers, hinges and track too.

Next, try these easy DIY projects you can do over a weekend.

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 Source: RD.com