Accurate measuring and marking is a cornerstone of successful DIY, so you ‘measure twice and cut once’.

‘I’m never without a good tape measure and my combination square,’ says Handyman contributor Gun Arvidssen.

‘Knowing the best way to use the right tools makes setting out easier, faster and more accurate.

‘In addition to the all-rounders like spirit levels and chalklines that get a lot of action, there are also more specialised tools.

‘Nothing beats a project where all the pieces fit together exactly the way they should,’ says Gun.

Three common measurers

Three common measurers
Handyman Magazine

Choose the tool that is designed to suit the scale of what you are measuring.

For split-millimetre accuracy, use a Vernier caliper, a standard tape measure for medium-size objects, and a laser measurer for reliable readings up to 50m.

Vernier caliper (above)

For outer measurements, close the larger jaws of the caliper around the object, lock the clamp screw, then read the display or graduations.

Use the small jaws for internal measurements.

To check depth, use the probe that extends from the end of the scale as the jaws open.

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Tape measure

Tape measure
Handyman Magazine

The movement of the hook on the end of a tape measure is a deliberate design feature.

It pulls out a little to allow for its own thickness when taking an external measurement.

When an internal measurement is taken, the hook pushes in by the same amount to ensure precision.

Laser measurer

Laser measurer
Handyman Magazine

Position the tool so that its back is flush with one end of what you want to measure.

Aim the laser beam so that it hits an object at the other end.

If there’s no wall or similar limit at the far end, attach a sticky note to aim the laser at instead, then press the button to display the distance.

Accurate measuring and marking is a cornerstone of successful DIY, so you ‘measure twice and cut once’.

‘I’m never without a good tape measure and my combination square,’ says Handyman contributor Gun Arvidssen.

‘Knowing the best way to use the right tools makes setting out easier, faster and more accurate.

‘In addition to the all-rounders like spirit levels and chalklines that get a lot of action, there are also more specialised tools.

‘Nothing beats a project where all the pieces fit together exactly the way they should,’ says Gun.

Marking tools

Marking tools
Handyman Magazine

Many DIY jobs involve laying out angles and curves as well as straight lines for which you need specialised marking tools and gauges.

Start with combination tools that have several uses, then build up your kit with more specialised tools.

Framing square (above)

A specialised version of the more basic carpenter’s or builder’s square, the framing square has tables and formulas imprinted on it for making quick calculations.

These make it fast and easy to work out area, volume, valley and common rafter set points.

It is also an extremely handy tool for setting out perpendicular lines on paving and landscaping projects.

Made from tempered steel, usually with a high-visibility powdercoat finish, it is tough and durable to cope with demanding worksite conditions.

Try square

Try square
Handyman Magazine

A try square is used to set out cut lines at 90º angles and check that adjoining surfaces or planed timber is square.

Most also have the stock machined at a 45º angle and a blade with metric and/or imperial graduations for use as a rule.

Combination square

Combination square
Handyman Magazine

The combination square is a great all-rounder that incorporates the key functions of several other measuring and marking tools.

Featuring a stock that slides along a lockable blade, use it as a try square, spirit level, and for marking 45º mitres.

It can even be used as a butt gauge and to mark a line parallel to an edge.

Accurate measuring and marking is a cornerstone of successful DIY, so you ‘measure twice and cut once’.

‘I’m never without a good tape measure and my combination square,’ says Handyman contributor Gun Arvidssen.

‘Knowing the best way to use the right tools makes setting out easier, faster and more accurate.

‘In addition to the all-rounders like spirit levels and chalklines that get a lot of action, there are also more specialised tools.

‘Nothing beats a project where all the pieces fit together exactly the way they should,’ says Gun.

Sliding bevel

Sliding bevel
Handyman

This adjustable gauge is used for setting and transferring angles.

It consists of a simple timber or plastic stock and a pivoting metal blade that can be locked at any angle with a wing nut or knurled knob.

The end of the blade is angled at 45º for use on mitred corners.

Set the angle from an existing workpiece or use a protractor.

Angle square

Angle square
Handyman Magazine

A multipurpose square that can be used as a protractor, bevel and saw guide, this tool is ideal for making repetitive cuts.

It also features jack, hip and valley scales for various roofing applications.

Compass

Compass
Handyman Magazine

This simple tool is used to draw arcs and circles.

On small projects, use an ordinary school compass, but for larger projects, use a large DIY compass or trammel.

Simply insert a pencil, set the desired radius between the pivot point and the pencil tip, then swing the tool over the surface to complete a circle or arc as required.

Accurate measuring and marking is a cornerstone of successful DIY, so you ‘measure twice and cut once’.

‘I’m never without a good tape measure and my combination square,’ says Handyman contributor Gun Arvidssen.

‘Knowing the best way to use the right tools makes setting out easier, faster and more accurate.

‘In addition to the all-rounders like spirit levels and chalklines that get a lot of action, there are also more specialised tools.

‘Nothing beats a project where all the pieces fit together exactly the way they should,’ says Gun.

Awl

Awl
Handyman Magazine

To make small holes for starting nails, drill bits and screws, you can’t go past this nifty tool.

It can also be used to scribe very fine cut lines or layout lines, and for making holes in tough materials such as leather.

The blade is hardened and tempered to ensure the tip stays sharp and the handle is made from timber or plastic.