DIY Basics: Essential guide to chainsaws

A chainsaw can become pinched if you cut too far through a branch that is supporting the trunk.

The cut will close, tightening and clamping around the bar and chain.

If this happens, stop the engine immediately and use a stout branch or fencing bar as a lever to lift the trunk and take pressure off the branch, opening up the cut to free the saw.

When cutting a log into 400mm lengths for firewood, first cut three-quarters of the way through, then if it is resting on the ground, roll it over to complete the cut from the other side.

If the log has a 70 to 150mm gap underneath, you can cut the whole way through, but keep the bar parallel to the ground.

As you near the end of the cut, finish with the base of the saw engine resting flat on the ground to prevent the the chain from accidentally hitting the dirt.

There are various ways to sharpen a blade DIY.

Some devices can be attached to a drill and sharpen each tooth, using a guide to control the depth and angle of cut.

Others are bench mounted with a grinding disc to file the cutting edge of each tooth in turn as the chain is fed over a guide bar.

TIP: Chains can be sharpened professionally for about $10.

The chain on your saw has to be tensioned correctly.

If it’s too loose or too tight, it can damage the bar and present a safety hazard.

Most modern saws feature tool-free tensioning systems, but older models may need to be adjusted using a screwdriver and wrench.

On modern chainsaws, the bar can be loosened using a locking wheel on the clutch cover.

A knurled dial is then turned to adjust the chain tension.

A dull chain cuts slowly, wasting time and causing unnecessary fatigue.

What’s worse, it can damage the chain and the bar, as well as put extra strain on the saw.

It only takes a moment to dull the blade if you touch the ground with the chain, saw muddy wood or hit a nail.

If the chain is sharp, the woodchip from the saw will have a rough texture.

The teeth need sharpening when the chainsaw begins to eject fine sawdust instead of coarse chips.

ONLY use a chainsaw when you are fully alert and not distracted.

WEAR full safety gear.

FILL the chainsaw with petrol before beginning a cut to avoid running out halfway through.

ENSURE the chainsaw is always full of chain and bar oil.

ONCE you start working, don’t take a break until the tree is down.

NEVER cut on a breezy day, as the force of the wind can cause the tree to fall in an unplanned direction.

THE COLDER MONTHS are a good time to fell deciduous trees, as they are easier to cut up when they are free of leaves.

WRAP the thumb of your left hand around the front handle with your right hand firmly on the trigger handle.

STAY AWAY from hollowed-out trees, especially if they’re big. They are unpredictable and dangerous to fell.

Make sure you have a helper nearby when you are operating a chainsaw.

If there is no way to avoid working alone, make sure someone knows where you are so they can raise the alarm if something does go wrong.

Always keep a mobile phone on hand, and ideally enlist the help of a trusted assistant who can stand a few metres away and monitor the top of the tree for falling branches.

They can also alert you to vacate the area via one of the planned escape routes once the tree starts to fall.

Ensure helpers move away from the felling area once you start cutting at a distance at least twice the height of the tree.

Beware of kickback

Chainsaws can potentially cause terrible injuries.

Most of these are caused by kickback, which occurs when the upper part of the blade tip comes in contact with something it can’t immediately cut, such as metal or a rock, while the chain is moving.

This throws the blade upwards and towards you with great speed and force.

The hand guard normally has an integrated chain brake that locks on in the event of kickback.

Even if the chain stops, the bar is hurled so violently upwards if kickback occurs that it can still cause severe injury, so prevention is the only way to ensure safety.