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DIY: Decorating Screen




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Words: Ed Frendo | Photographs: Chris L. Jones
Styling: Louise Owens | Diagrams: Stephen Pollitt

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Double-duty screen

This Tasmanian oak decorating screen tucks away mess and displays photos. It stands at 1300mm and is designed to hide a fireplace in summer. To use it as a room divider, make it higher than the measurements suggested here, adding extra spaces for photos.


MAKING DOWEL JOINTS
Each joint is assembled with two 8mm dowels. Dowel joints look simple but need to be accurately aligned. Dowelling jigs make the process simple. The trick is to ensure you’re always working from the same face.

For a cheaper option than a jig, use dowel centres. They have a sharp centre point, making it easier to identify the drilling position on the connecting piece.
Insert a dowel centre into one hole and carefully align the adjoining piece to mark the hole position.

Use a dowelling bit (also called a spur bit), which has a centre point for more precise drilling. Standard twist drills have a tendency to wander off the mark.

1. Make the outer frames
Clamp the four outer frame stiles together with the face edges up. Ensure the ends are flush. Mark out the rail positions (see Diagram 1). Square the lines across all four edges. Mark the rail positions with a cross to avoid confusion.

2. Mark out the rails
Clamp eight longer rails together and mark out the centre position for the 42mm mullions on both edges of the intermediate rails and one edge only of the top and bottom rails. Repeat for the other outer frame rails.


3. Mark out the dowels
Mark out the positions of the dowels in the end of the rails and mullions. Use a marking gauge to mark the centre, then position two dowels, each 10mm in from each edge. Drill the holes with a dowel bit in an electric drill to a depth of 21mm.


4. Dowel holes
Lay out two stiles on a flat area, insert the dowel centres into the rail holes. Align the rails with the marked positions on the stiles and firmly press the pieces together to mark the hole positions.


5. Drill holes
Label each joint with a corresponding number, and repeat for all rails and mullions. Drill the dowel holes into the edge of the stiles and rails to 21mm deep on a drill press or by hand.


6. Make the sub-frame
Mark out the centre frame, as in Diagram 2, ensuring all joints are clearly labelled with corresponding numbers or letters. This will help prevent confusion and save time during the glue-up.


7. Tapered stiles
Mark out a 255 x 42mm taper on the inside edges of the stiles. This may be cut out with a jigsaw or handsaw. (Make sure you cut on the waste side of the line.) Finish using a hand plane.


8. Glue up
Apply a slow-setting glue to the holes in edges of the stiles, then drive home the 8mm dowels. Apply some glue to the ends of the mullions and attach to the rails. Clamp securely.


9. Clamping
Apply glue to the dowel holes in the ends of the rails and assemble to the stiles. (You may need to tap them with a dead blow hammer.) Clamp the entire frame securely and set aside to dry. Assemble the remaining two frames using the same steps.


10. Attaching the hinges
Sand the frames, ensuring all joints are flush and sharp edges removed. Attach two 65mm brass butt hinges to the adjoining frames. The hinges should be arranged in opposing directions to allow folding.


11. Finishing off
If the screen will be used for photos, cut a rebate into the back off each opening. Set up a router with a rebating bit to a depth of 6mm. Each photo is held in place by a piece of 3mm MDF backing board secured with picture framing tape.

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Last Updated: 2008-02-14 00:00:00.0