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DIY: classic picnic table




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8-PERSON PICNIC TABLE



1. Cut the top boards
Using a circular saw, cut the seat and top boards to length, cutting away cracks or splits that may be on the ends of the boards. Use a saw guide to cut the ends.

2. Cut the leg pieces
Cut templates for the leg braces (E) and legs (B) then cut to shape. Cut tapered angles on crosspieces (C and D) and cut to length (see Diagram 2). Use a belt sander and 80-grit sanding belt to smooth. Sand edges by clamping boards upright between the sawhorses and use a belt sander, or sand by hand.

3. Put the frames together
Assemble the A-frames, clamping the top support (D) and seat support (C) in place (see Diagram 1). Drill clearance holes for the cup-head bolts and counterbore for nuts and washers on the inside (see Diagram 3).
TIP Drill holes just large enough to fit the bolts snugly for a rigid frame.

4. Assemble the frame bolts
Hammer the cup-head bolts into the holes. Insert them all the way to seat the square part of the bolt shafts securely in the timber (see Diagram 1). Tighten nuts with a ratchet and socket. Use nylon-insert locknuts to hold the joint tight.

5. Assemble the tabletop
Clamp the feet to position the A-frame vertically. Set the tabletop boards in place so the outer ones are flush with the ends of the supports (D). When the ends are flush and the gaps are uniform, screw the boards down. Ensure the tabletop is square by checking all diagonals are equal.

6. Attach the leg braces
From underneath, align and mark the spot where the leg braces (E) land on the centre top board. Pre-drill and screw-fix in place. Position centre brace (D) and screw-fix in place. To finish, position the seat boards flush with the outside edge of the support and screw-fix. Apply chosen finish.


TOOL LIST
TO COME

Page 1 | Page 2 | Materials and costs | DOWNLOAD this project (PDF)




Last Updated: 2008-02-21 00:00:00.0